DATELINE 6/19/2004 SPECIAL FROM "LA OPINION" SJC CA
NOT ONLY DID 'NOFRE SMELL FISHY, BUT IT LOOKED FISHY.
Its beach was empty at 6:00 AM, no long line and
everywhere to park. The ocean's surface was glass,
the rising sun cast shadows on the damp sand. Several
gulls scurried across the beach, searching for a tasty
morsel or two. Maybe, this is how it may have looked
to the "Pioneers of San Onofre Surfing" in 1926. Down
the "primitive dirt road", the single white van,
emblazoned with orange and red scallops, the huge
inscription in black letters, "The California Kid".
I don't know why, but that white van, longboard secured
to the roof, wet trunks hanging from the side mirror,
tires balder than bald, sure looked familiar.
"The Kid" stepped from the van, sporting DKNY designer
jeans, white 'Nofre 50th bulky tee, clutching a 50th
'Nofre coffee mug, and a "Go Home Kook" terry-cloth
beach towel. After a quick change into a set of lavender
and lime green Speedos, with no wetsuit, the "Kid" paddles
out, using a Finger Mill as his land mark. He's 110 yards
offshore when he sees movement on the horizen. The set
approaches. He wheels his board 11' in length, taking
the second of four with a single stroke, draws his left
leg forward from a prone paddle,lifts himself smoothly
to his feet, cranks a right slide easy-turn, heading toward
the power plant. He's reached maximum speed on the limousine
when he cranks a gigantic sweeping drop-knee back left in dramatic fashion. It was a comber at least 6'high. Now,
"The Kid" is riding high on the crest when, he's joined
by a group of playful dolphins, "The Kid" and dolphins,
riding side by side across the third reef, was a
"King Neptune" moment. "The Kid" straightened out
leaving his new found friends with a farewell salute,
and riding it to the beach, stepped off, headed for
"The Great White Van" and silently drove away. Maybe
it was coincidental, but "The California Kid" sure looked familiar.
TUBESTEAK/SOOTHSAYER