.
http://www.blacksurfing.com/history.htm

Thank the Lord we have Les Williams to keep surfing honest.
June 6th 1951, Nick Gabaldon and L.A.County Lifeguard rode
across the face of a monster wave at Keller's Shelter a.k.a. Malibu,
Bob Hogan was in front, Nick Gabaldon followed him. Lifeguard
Hogan saw the rapidly approaching pier, yelling for Nick , "Pull
out, Nick!" Nick didn't. The above website leads us to believe
the sweeping monster was recorded on film. Boy, was I suckered.
The above photo is not Hogan and Gabaldon, but Dave Heiser and
Malibu Matt Kivlin taken Jan. 10th, 1953 by Joe Quigg at Rincon
CA. Les Williams has forgotten stuff about surfing than one would
ever know. At the Dairy, Les Williams is Surfing's Curator. I know
Hogan, Kivlin, Heiser, Leslie nailed it down. Anyways, Loren Harrison
was no slouch at Killer Dana. Those guys are surfing's heroes.

Written by Rick Crouton
BRUCE SAVAGE SAND ASSOCIATES